Machu Picchu, Peru
To reach the ancient Inca Valley, travellers must fly through the city of Cusco in the Peruvian Andes. Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire, is now known for its cobblestone streets, clay-tile roofs, archaeological remains and Spanish colonial architecture. Sitting at 11,000 feet above sea level, you may feel breathless meandering through the city, but in time, you will adjust. Also, remember to wear sun cream because the Peruvian sun is fierce.
Following a night in Cusco, Austin and I embarked on the five-day Salkantay trek with Tierras Vivas, a solitary, more challenging alternative to the famous Inca Trail. Salkantay, which in Quechua means “wild mountain,” is the tallest mountain in the Cordillera Vilcabamba at 6,272 m/20,569 feet. The trek ends at Machu Picchu.
Day 1:
On our first day we acclimated to walking at high altitude, visiting Humantay mountain and lake. The first night we camped at Soraypampa, at the base of Humantay. It was cold, but we sipped hot cocoa, bundled up in our sleeping bags, and cuddled hot water bottles as we closed our eyes under the star-filled sky.
Day 2:
We awoke at 6am for breakfast, prepared by our wonderful cooks Bruno and Albers, and traditional coca tea, an indigenous plant leaf that helps to minimize the effects of soroche (altitude sickness). Physically, day 2 was the toughest as we tackled Salkantay mountain. After six hours, we reached the pass at 4,600 m/15,091 feet – the highest I had ever been, outside of an airplane. At the pass, we were speechless, staring at the snowcapped mountain, proud of our tiring ascent. Unfortunately, not all made it to the top in such good spirits – we witnessed a poor hiker vomiting and several stubborn mulas refusing to walk any further. Unfortunately, on the hike down, I was hit with soroche. Despite a headache as bad as those I had when I was concussed, nose bleeds, and vomiting, I admired the scenery which reminded me of the Lake District in England. Around midnight, twenty-two miles later, we arrived at Chaullay campsite where I passed out in the tent our team had set up for us. With my legs half-sticking out of the tent, I managed the words, “Austin, shoes,” to which my wonderful boyfriend took off my hiking boots and I fell asleep.
Day 3:
I awoke on day three a revived woman, ready for the descent to La Playa. When I awoke, I was pleased to see the dog who had followed our group from Soraypampa had made it to Chaullay. Our fellow camper, Jessica, named him Africa. I squealed with delight when I saw a month old puppy that had been abandoned, and then adopted by the owners of our campsite. The number of stray dogs in Cusco and throughout the hike astounded me. Day 3 was very enjoyable. We had entered a new climate, more jungle-like. We walked past waterfalls, through lush greenery and ended the day at hot springs. La Playa was the only campsite that had somewhat of a nightlife scene. After supper, backpackers gathered around the campfire blasting hit Latino songs and drinking Cosqueñas. Perhps this was so because the high-pitched, mega-phone volume birds made it rather difficult to get sleep.
Day 4:
Day 4, Austin and I split up. I relaxed in the gardens overlooking the Andes playing with an 8-week old kitten and her mother, while Austin tackled another hike. We met at Hidroeléctrica and began the walk along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes - our final resting point before reaching Machu Picchu. Aguas Calientes was buzzing and we were thrilled to have access to a mattress and shower in a hostal. Four days of no proper bed or shower was more than enough for me! That night, we ate dinner at a restaurant with our group, then split off with our frined Jessica for a cheeky pisco sour.
Day 5:
Day five was perhaps the climax of our trek as we reached Machu Picchu citadel! With 8am entrance tickets, we walked through the gates before hoards of people and got a few incredible shots. We then hiked to the sun gate, where we had expected a spectacular view, but due to cloud coverage, we had nothing but a white backdrop for photographs. That said, sitting on the ledge at the sun gate was a peaceful experience as fewer people attempted the hour long walk. Here, I got a sense for the level of tranquility the Incas may have once experienced. We returned to the site where we weaved our way through the citadel, spotting llamas and appreciating the craftsmanship. The entire village was created by shaping stones to fit into one another and assembled without cement or mortar or the use of the wheel. We left Machu Picchu via a train from Ollantaytambo Station and had a taxi drop us off at our hotel in Cusco. I spent the enite taxi ride sucking on chicha morada, a purple, hard candy made from corn.
The following days, we relaxed, making the most of the hotel spa, Peruvian restaurants, and the city of Cusco. The highlight was petting a 3-month old alpaca!
Activities:
-
San Pedro Market - The atmosphere is vibrant, filled both with tourists and residents. Vendors sell plates of chicken and rice for 5 soles, freshly squeezed juices for even less. Merchants in indigenous garb sell fruits, vegetables, spices, cheeses and breads to locals while others hawk alpaca goods, jewellery, and keepsakes.
-
Spa
-
Plaza de Armas
Food:
-
Cicciolina - Cicciolina was a magical find on our first morning in Cusco. The restaurant is located on the second story of an old colonial house, tucked away off Calle Triunfo amongst inauspicious, artsy shops. We devoured breakfasts plates, each featuring divine avocado, whilst sipping on freshly squeezed mango and banana juices at a high-top bar table. If you would like to eat here for dinner, be sure to book ahead as it is very, very popular.
-
Chicha - On our last night, we set out to Chicha, a franchise of Peruvia wonder-chef Gaston Acurio. The restaurant was very busy and the service lacked a personal touch, but the plates were divine. I would describe the cuisine as upscale, traditional Peruvian with a modern twist. Austin thought it was hilarious that they served us coca-infused bread (which he had to avoid unless he wanted to test positive for cocaine on a work drug test).
Accommodation:
